Via ” Un giorno credi………” Presanella East Face

Route"UN GIORNO CREDI" ice &mixed est face of Presanella Peak, on the low part of the sunny side. The difficult part of the route is 350 m long, highest grade M7+ (to be confirmed), then after 200 m you are on the east ridge and you can go to the top with other 150m or go back to the ridge. If the snow is bad in the upper part you can easly rappelling down. We find out the route very nice but ice quite detached ice two week before will be better condition.
Equipment : set of Wild Country to the big Grey the 4 micro tri cam bd set of nuts wild country off set to the very small 6 pitons 14 bolts for the belay and rappel,
L1 60m ca m6 climb the gully until and chimny m5 and then 50m wi 3+ m3 belay on the left
L 2 60m ca wi 4+ m5 climb the ice fall and the ice ramp wi 3 bolts belay on the right

L3 55m ca wi 3+ m 3 climb on the left and follow the ice to the steep ice and mixed belay on the rightsalire verso
L4 60m circa 40-50° climb the snow to the left and after one Bolt on the rock surfacing
L5 60m ca m6 climb on the right 10m and after climb straight linee stay on the left side of a roof we leave a nut and a piton belay neare a big chimney go to the right .
L6 50m ca m7+ Avoid the left ramp climb straight a small and frozen overhanging crack 2 piton, after the difficult part m 6 one other piton belay on a big spike.
L7 60m m6 climb the corner to the end and go to the right to one other big spike . Option one rappelling down option two go to the ridge before to the left and after to the right to reach the big gully follow to the ridge and after go down to the Amola Pass

Anno apertura:

2020 26 novembre


Massimo Faletti ,Raffaele Mercuriali , Giovanni Andriano