We set off around 8:00 in the morning, heading toward Monte Gallo. During the approach I spotted a possible line of ascent: a red dihedral ending on a small point. From there, the wall continues for several rope lengths, reaching a summit located between Pizzo Volturo and Monte Santa Margherita.
After consulting the IGM maps and the CAI guidebook, we discovered that this summit had no name. So I decided to name it Punta Narciso, in memory of my father. Dedicated to all our fathers.
The route, opened in a single day, is almost entirely trad and reaches a maximum difficulty of 7-, with a single piton on the crux pitch, placed by the second. The first three belays are equipped with two pitons each, while the following ones need to be reinforced with cams.
Gear used:
two sets of Totemcams
larger cams up to grey (BD 3/4)
offset nuts
threads
It is recommended to bring tat for leaving behind on thread placements.
The climb is very enjoyable, especially on the lower section, which has been cleaned of loose blocks. The last three pitches would benefit from further cleaning. (Cleaning during rainfall is advised to avoid alarming the world.)