“Respect the Nature”
580 m, VIII- (VII-mandatory), trad,
Monte Gallo, Pizzo Sella (NW)
Max Faletti, Emanuele Andreozzi, Gremes Andrea
2–3 November 2025
“Respect the Nature” is an adventure-style alpine climb that seeks out the easier lines within the difficult terrain of a hostile, overhanging wall offering very few weaknesses. It is the first route traced directly on the huge amphitheater of the north-west face, where until now routes had only been established on the buttresses that frame it. To the right stands the historic “Ho sentito le sirene cantare,” opened solo by the legendary Roby Manfrè Scuderi in 1991; on the left buttress lie two recently opened modern routes: “Diretta Amari” by Filip Babicz and Paolo Bergamaschi, and “Piccolo grande uomo” by Fabio Failla and Angelo La Rosa.
The climbing unfolds through strenuous chimneys, dihedrals, cracks and slabs that are not trivial to protect. The rock is varied and mostly good—sometimes superb—though sections of loose rock and vegetation are not uncommon. Repeating parties should be comfortable with solid mandatory climbing around VII- on friable terrain. The route was opened over two days with a bivy on a ledge at the end of pitch 9. It was freed using two sets of cams, nuts, and 17 pitons—all left in place and used mainly for belays (only 5 are in the pitches). A few slings were also left on threads. Over the 18 pitches, fixed gear is very sparse: solid alpine experience, good judgment, and confidence on loose rock are essential. In an era where many climb with the drill, we deliberately chose the opposite approach and kindly ask that our style be respected: do not add bolts to the belays and do not drill threaded holes.
The north-west aspect keeps the wall in the shade for most of the day during short autumn and winter days. In spring, however, when the sun is higher, it is exposed for much of the afternoon and the heat can become oppressive.
Parking
From Palermo, follow signs to Sferracavallo, then continue to the Barcarello seaside road. Blue parking bays are on the right side of the street.
QR code: parking area.
Approach
From the parking area, follow the road and enter the Capo Gallo nature reserve. Continue on the main forest road until directly below the obvious pillar where the route starts. Leave the main trail and briefly enter the Mediterranean scrub. Near the base, the start is located by a group of holm oaks. A small cairn marks the beginning of the access ramp for the first pitch.
Approx. 40 minutes.
Gear
Two full sets of cams up to #2, plus a #3 and #4; doubling the black Totem is advised; a #5 is useful but not essential. Bring about 15 pitons, a hammer, nuts, and bivouac gear. Because of the overhanging nature of the face and the rightward diagonal line of the route, retreat by rappelling becomes practically impossible from pitch 11 upward. In any case, abseiling is feasible only up to pitch 6, reinforcing some anchors.
Route
L1 – From the cairn, follow the earthy ramp rightwards (10 m), then leftwards (10 m) to reach a piton on a slab.
20 m, II (1 piton at belay)
L2 – Climb left of the piton up the obvious ramp, staying left of a dwarf palm, then pull into an open vegetated dihedral. Follow it until it opens, then traverse sharply right across the slab with delicate moves to the belay.
50 m, VI (2 pitons at belay)
L3 – From the belay, follow the crack, then climb the evident grey slab above (all gear to be placed). When the slab ends near vegetation, traverse decisively right toward a light-colored overhang, climb its prow and reach easier ground.
50 m, VI (piton + sling at belay)
L4 – Step up onto a technical slab, climb initially left, then on the vertical wall slightly right of the arete to a small stance near the arete’s edge.
55 m, VI (2 pitons at belay, 2 slung threads on pitch)
L5 – Step over the block of the belay and aim right for a dark chimney with a large niche at the base.
20 m, V+ (belay inside the niche, slung thread)
L6 – Climb the chimney, then trend right to an obvious slab. Climb it vertically with an athletic move (piton at base and at exit). Traverse right toward a large chimney and belay at its base.
30 m, VI (slung thread, supplement with gear)
L7 – Climb the strenuous chimney to its top, then exit right on an overhanging wall (piton). Continue right with a difficult move on small holds and belay immediately after.
30 m, VII (piton to supplement; hanging belay below a yellow crack)
L8 – Climb the compact yellow crack, then traverse decisively right through unstable blocks and vegetation, aiming for a large ledge with a tree. Beware of rope drag; consider breaking the pitch in two.
55 m, VII (loose), gear belay on comfortable ledge
L9 – Climb the large block, move right to the bivouac ledge.
15 m, IV (belay with jammed sling, supplement)
L10 – From the bivy ledge, descend a few meters, move right behind the arete, then traverse 10 m along a small ledge to belay.
15 m, II+ (piton to supplement)
Note: Those not bivying can likely reach this belay directly from the previous gear belay.
L11 – Move up and traverse right, rounding an arete, then continue rightward to the base of an obvious red crack-dihedral.
30 m, VI (thread belay, supplement)
L12 – Climb the chimney/dihedral, then the beautiful crack (nut left in place) to a narrow ledge.
25 m, VIII- (piton belay, supplement)
L13 – Climb the slab, then take the left ramp following a crack with vegetation (excellent rock) to easier ground and belay (black sling marking the spot).
20 m, VI- (gear belay)
L14 – From the belay, climb up right, round the arete, and continue traversing right with delicate moves far from protection. Pass another marked arete, traverse, and reach a large open dihedral with 2 pitons for the belay.
30 m, VII
L15 – Do not enter the main dihedral above (loose). Instead, move left onto the slab toward a pointed triangular block. After passing it, climb a vertical wall difficult to protect on small holds, then continue straight to a ledge beneath a large yellow wall.
30 m, VII- (loose; piton + jammed nut)
L16 – Traverse right along the obvious ramp, pass two short dihedrals (partly loose), then stop beneath a huge overhanging dihedral. Belay right of it at the base of a solid crack.
25 m, V+ (gear belay, very exposed)
L17 – Do not climb the huge overhanging dihedral. Instead, climb the athletic crack above the belay, then up to a cemented block. Continue a few meters, then traverse left into a red tufa-like dihedral (piton at entrance). Excellent climbing leads to the top; a hidden piton among vegetation protects the final mantle.
30 m, VII (gear belay, black sling marks spot)
L18 – Climb the crack above the belay on white rock, surmount a large flake and continue up cracked walls in a vague open dihedral, then follow the ramp trending left to exit the wall.
50 m, VI (gear belay or thread)
Descent
Option 1
Descend toward the houses and the dirt road just below the summit. It soon becomes paved; follow it for about 30 minutes to the plains below. This is a private road: walking is allowed, but vehicle access is restricted to residents. From there, return to Barcarello using a second car or public transport.
Option 2
Descend south-west, staying roughly on the easy ridge, reaching a clear notch. Continue along the same ridge and climb to the main summit ahead, Pizzo Vuturo (often mistakenly called Punta Baloo). From the summit, descend to Piano Margherita, find the couloir (cairn) that returns to the ascent side, and descend scree and shrubs to meet the trail leading back to the forest road and finally to the car.
About 1.5 hours.