Ice & Mixed “Via Le Guerre dal Mondo” Paganella peak Trementina valley

Ice and mixed route
Reach the Fai della Paganella lifts, opening 8.15am, take 2 chairlifts up to the Sella, go down the Nuvola Rossa slope until you see a house on the right, go up there on foot for 5 minutes until you see the Val Trementina amphitheater from there you can see them the two obvious ledges which were partly equipped by the Speleos. You descend the couloir to the lowest ledge, there start in a dihedral crack created by a large block, at the base a bolt found on site (belay) the route climbs using a stone cord embedded and then follow the bolt line
First Pitch very delicate bolt m8+ belay on Thread and Kevlar bolt M8+ WI 6/7
Second pitch follow 5 bolts plus a piton and an old WI 6/7 bolt (of Davide Lunel's summer route with a stop above 5m) you need 5/6 screws between red yellow and a small blue Totemcam friend and arrive at the entrance of the Battisti Cave stop on the cable and eyebolt of the cave
The 130 m that follow with this year's abundance of water are done on difficult ice using 12 ice screws WI 5+ 6
equipment 12 screw or more also small red and yellow essential a totem blue 13 quickdraw
Grades are to be confirmed
good fun

Anno apertura:

16 dic 2023


Massimo & Giordano Faletti