Dolomites South Face Marmolada” Madre Roccia”

Route opened in two years, in autumn 2022 after asking permission from Righetti who had started a new route in the 80s that was never finished again. 4 pitches on aid we went to see and began to open an attack variant, given that the first pitch would always remain wet then, we climbed a pitch and a half old and then another pitch of about 35m of 7a+ there a couple more bolts and then stranded. In August 2023 we spent another 3 days and we didn't pass, we planted a few bolts by hand but we didn't make much progress, in one morning I cleared a pitch of Righetti, let's say that the rock was quite rotten, the pitch turned out to be a solid 7b+.
Let's say that the resolution was brought by Iris who, with her lightness, on a day that seemed to be going all wrong, completed the most difficult pitch of the route. Mauriziosi was impatient and said that he couldn't move forward 10m per day;and at this point by dividing ourselves we could also do the upper part. so in 2 days Matteo and Iris finished the part up to the ledge we reached the ledge in one day and the second we arrived at the top.
in October 2023 Matteo and Iris climbed and in two days they freed the pitches of the lower part.

Anno apertura:

September'22 August 2023 tot 8 days


Maurizio Giordanin Matteo Della Bordella Iris Bielli Massimo Faletti