Via “Thank you Giovanni”
dedicated to Giovanni Andriano, a friend who died in an avalanche last year, he was an enthusiast of these adventures and opened some beautiful lines in the Dolomites the route partially copies a old platter summer route
Route opened on November 16th
by Max Faletti Marco Cordin Paolo Valentini
Approach . Park the car at the Piano de Schiavaneis crag, go up Val Lasties before the plateau, immediately after a pillar on the right you can see the line, stay below
difficulty m6+ V rock WI 6+ all to be confirmed
Material used complete series of friends Totemcam plus 2 wild country blue 3 and 4, two alien green and small a set of Nuts off set red the we made the belay with 6 Bolts t8 mmhe other belay is for the Simon Gietl & Messini route We found two others, one with Thred and one with two pitons, for the ice screws 12 short, very short and medium, series of nuts off set, a few pitons and hammers are advisable, 4/5 ropes to leave for the last two hourglasses and for the pitch before the recessed gouloulotte
First pitch 60m m6
Two thed, the crux is about 50m up a rib then traverse on ice at the belay for rappelling with two bolts
Second pitch 35m approximately m6 starting traverse to the left then straight on the ice first crag and second crag a little to the right towards an oblique crack where you can protect the crux on the second crag,
Third pitch IV+ climbs belay with two Thred, one dug with a hammer
Fourth pitch Goulotte WI IV pitch belay on Thred on the right, piton on the left, useless, under the ice festoon
Fifth pitch Goulotte WI IV then Rock chimney V rock once out of the chimney turn to the left belay on the brothers' peg and our hourglass jig
Sixth pitch 30 m wall WI IV then difficult candle which is solved starting from the left with a start on the rock then to the right over the pecker m6 +. belay on two pitons of the brothers in the niche
Seventh 70/75m approximately difficult ice pitch with a spot before the exit and two Thred halfway down the abseil
NBThis world is changing! think that after starting to climb the first pitch when Marco was climbing large showers of ice blocks continued to descend. At that point I untied myself and moved away from the wall to see what was happening. There were two who were lowering themselves from above. They were our problem. A couple of those blocks caused me a couple of bumps. The hourglass hollowed out with hammer or ax at the beginning of the gully we didn't puncture it, however I also say that the two belays the pecker on the key mixed piece gave us a good hand, and luckily after four shouts that I gave them they decided to go back up taking down a good bit of ice, however the last part 70 / 75 m we decided to go up the non-pre-packaged right line great Marco who started for a 70m development pitch at 5.45pm started with the front on this difficult pitch of ice ) fought until 7.40 we arrived at the car at 9.40 in the evening