Approach, going towards Madonna di Campiglio before S antonio di Mavignola climbs the Val Nambrone, follow the road to park at the top after the crossroads of the Segantini ref, and continue to the lake of Cornisello after the lake above a Malga is this shield crossed by some cracks, despite being a splendid and relatively comfortable place, this site remains little frequented.
The beauty of the place, however, was immediately noticed first of all by Massimo Faletti followed by other local climbers.
Just go there once to fall in love with the place, the view of the Brenta group is phenomenal, the granite is of excellent quality and where there are no cracks it is full of fantastic nobs.
The wall is 100 meters high and the descents are carried out comfortably on the stops equipped with a 60-meter rope. In addition to our route, I also want to illustrate the other routes on the face
1) FRATELLO ORSO: climbed from Massimo Faletti Cristoforo Groaz 1998 and adjusted from Alessandro Beltrami and Silvestro Franchini on 06/27/10. L1VI + L2 VI + L3 VII
Notes: entirely to be protected, a series of friends and nuts are required, there is a bolt at the Belay . Interesting itinerary: L1 wet chimney up to the obvious roof, cross below it with a traverse to the left, boulderine on the edge to cross it. L2 Straight above the belay for cracks that cannot be protected much L3 crack to the left of the belay, dihedral leaning to the left up to the pillar (possible belay) face the last 5 meters with decision protecting yourself with a small friend in the crack 2 meters to the right of the Peccato sull 'bolts orl.
2) SIN ON THE LET: opened by Alessandro Beltrami and Silvestro Franchini in October 2011. P1 7A + P2 6c + P3 6c +
L1: nice endurance pitch. L2 smart boulder on entry and fantastic edge. L3 smart boulder on exit.
3) SHOOT TO PROTECT: opened by Massimo Faletti. Difficulty 7b + / 7c. To be protected with small pegs and friends (up to purple).
4) HAPPY BIRTHDAY POPE ': opened by Alessandro Beltrami and Silvestro Franchini on 01/10/11. 6c + Notes: very fun and overhanging pitch to be protected as a friend (0.5-0.75-0.3- 2 nuts).
5) GUARDIAN DELA CANALETA: established by Gianni Canale and Aldo Mazzotti P1 7a / + P2 6a + P3 6a + bolted route
6) VIA FALETTI: opened by Max Faletti, the first on the wall, friends up to 4 BD are required, bolts on the belay.There is also some variant opened by Max Faletti is on the picture below to do all the routes you need 2 complete sets of friend until 4 bd
7) MIXOMICELIO SUPERPOWER: bolted by Mirko Masè and Oscar Bertarelli with difficulties up to 6b +.
Massimo Faletti Cristoforo Groaz Zoe Bundros